We will start in the centre with the pulled satin stitch. This is just one variation on a stitch that can be used in a multitude of ways in pulled work.The trick is to pull firmly and keep the tension on the pulled thread with your finger at the back of the work while you place the next stitch. Try not to yank the thread as it may break! Keep the same tension throughout the work to keep the pattern looking the same.pulled satin stitch diagram
The first row
We will work in diago
nal rows starting at the big blue dot on the chart. Each stitch is worked over three fabric threads. Work the first three stitches as shown in the diagram. When you bring the thread up through the fabric for stitch 7-8 be careful to count one thread across and six up. You want to end the stitch in the same "channel" that you have created with the first block of three stitches. At my workshops some students end the stitch in the row above which throws everything out. The faint dotted line shows where the thread is carried on the back of the work.
Row 2
When the first two blocks are in place we will travel in the opposite direction for the second diagonal row. Count out to the side from stitch 11-12 to bring the needle up for this next row. (The blue line on the chart shows the position of the thread on the back of the work.) Work the blocks of three stitches in the same manner, starting at the bottom of the stitch and re-entering the fabric at the top of each stitch, as shown by the arrow beside the first block. To start the second block in this row, drop 6 fabric threads and 1 across. Continue with the blocks coloured burgundy on the chart.
Row 2
When the first two blocks are in place we will travel in the opposite direction for the second diagonal row. Count out to the side from stitch 11-12 to bring the needle up for this next row. (The blue line on the chart shows the position of the thread on the back of the work.) Work the blocks of three stitches in the same manner, starting at the bottom of the stitch and re-entering the fabric at the top of each stitch, as shown by the arrow beside the first block. To start the second block in this row, drop 6 fabric threads and 1 across. Continue with the blocks coloured burgundy on the chart.
pulled satin stitch sample
And the third row
The third row is coloured pink on the chart. Before we start this row we need to take a travelling stitch out to the side of our stitched area in order to keep the pull on the thread when moving to the next row. This stitch is shown in blue on the chart and is just a little backstitch. It also serves to keep the thread from laying behind the decorative holes in the pattern and therefore showing in the finished piece. Work the third row in a similar manner to before checking the direction of the arrow to make sure the stitches are worked from top to bottom.
Completing the pulled satin stitch area
Complete the rest of the centre square in the same way, using travelling stitches where necessary. Fasten off your threads by taking them underneath the satin stitches on the back of the work.
Diagonal raised band
For this stitch we will be working over 6 fabric threads. It is best to start at the bottom centre, although it is easier to count if you start nearest to one of the corners of the centre square. The problem with the latter starting place is the difficulty in getting the pull correct at both the beginning and end of the pattern. When I tried starting here I ended up with a flat section that didn't raise as it should.
Follow the numbers on the diagram to work the vertical stitches first. Begin stitch 3-4 by dropping 3 and moving across 3 fabric threads. Pull tightly so that the stitches form a raised band. This won't be that obvious on the first trip but will give a good effect when you come back down the row to complete the horizontal stitches afterwards.
Follow the numbers on the diagram to work the vertical stitches first. Begin stitch 3-4 by dropping 3 and moving across 3 fabric threads. Pull tightly so that the stitches form a raised band. This won't be that obvious on the first trip but will give a good effect when you come back down the row to complete the horizontal stitches afterwards.
This second journey is easy as the holes in which to put the needle are already in place.
Work the other three diagonal raised band areas to surround the centre square in the same way. You may find it easier to turn the fabric round so that you can follow the numbering on the diagram in the same way for each side.
needlework-tips-and-techniques.com-> Source
Work the other three diagonal raised band areas to surround the centre square in the same way. You may find it easier to turn the fabric round so that you can follow the numbering on the diagram in the same way for each side.
needlework-tips-and-techniques.com-> Source
